Babbling Brooke’s Travel Blog

Back when Matt and I were planning our trip to New Zealand, we knew we couldn’t miss the Fjordlands. Doubtful Sound and Milford Sound are both not super easy to get to, as they are so remote. That’s when we stumbled across the option to book and overnight passage on a boat to stay in the sound, itself. Sold! Due to availability, we landed on the Milford Mariner, which sails in Milford Sound. We booked through RealNZ, and would catch a bus in Te Anau that would take us into the National Park, to the boat, and then bring us back the next day.

We booked our Airbnb in Te Anau for 3 nights, knowing that the 2nd night we wouldn’t actually be there, but it would allow us to keep all our belongings and car parked safely while not having to pay expensive parking. Plus, we were used to packing up every single day to head to a new spot, and the thought of not having to do that was very enticing!

The morning of our 28th day in New Zealand, we grabbed breakfast in Te Anau at the Sandfly Cafe before getting everything packed and settled at the Airbnb. From there, we walked back into town with our overnight bag and got on the coach bus for the 3 hour ride. Our driver, Ryan, was super awesome. He played great music, had loads of information balanced that with not too much talking, was funny as hell, and gave us breaks to stretch our legs at really scenic spots. Overall 10/10! Plus, it was kind of nice not having to drive for a change so both of us could look at the scenery.

On the drive into Milford Sound, the weather became increasingly wetter, and our driver informed us the forecast for the night called for some ‘biblical rain’. I was a tad nervous after our encounter in Abel Tasman, but mostly stoked as you don’t get waterfalls without rain in the Fjordlands!

As we drove in, we saw more and more cars, vans, and buses heading in the opposite direction as us. We quickly learned that a huge perk of booking the overnight experience is that you arrive when all of the day visitors are leaving the sound, and you leave the next morning as they are all arriving. We were about to have the Milford Sound all to ourselves! Incredible.

Off the bus and onto the boat, we were all directed to the saloon for a safety briefing before receiving our room keys and getting time to get situated. During that time, the Mariner left the docks and began the journey through the sound.

Rain hitting the slick, rocky mountains that lack any topsoil layer means that it has no where to absorb into and thus is left to cascade down in endless streams of water. Hundreds and thousands of waterfalls formed along the walls of the steep mountains. It was windy and cold and yet there was no where I else I wanted to be except outside taking it all in.

Matt and I ran around the boat taking photos with phones and cameras, getting decently soaked in the process.

Our boat did a mini sound cruise before tying up to the mooring buoy for the night in a protected cove. From there, we joined others on the tender for a cruise within the harbor with the nature guide, who pointed out various things and taught us about where we were staying.

We learned that the first step in the chain of life in such harsh conditions is the lichen that grow on the rocks. From there, moss can grow on the lichen and they form a symbiotic relationship. The seeds of trees blow in the wind and land on the moss, sprout and grow, embedding themselves into the moss and even the rock of the mountain like an anchor! Other trees do the same, and they intertwine their roots to hold each other up. This works well until one tree falls, like during a storm. Since the roots of the trees rely on one another, if one goes, a whole slew of trees follow suite, sliding down the steep banks into the sound. They call these ‘tree avalanches’ and the evidence is all around; like scars on the mountain.

Our guide told us a few years back after receiving a meter of rain in 24 hours, there were so many tree avalanches overnight that the whole cove filled with downed trees, trapping the Mariner. Instead of an overnight trip, those folks ended up staying on the boat for 3 days, until the currents shifted or the logs soaked up so much water that they sank, allowing the ship to safely maneuver out. So wild!

After the guided tour, and when all kayakers were back, they opened up the back deck for swimming. Matt and I, along with a few other brave folks, jumped into the cold water!

It had rained so much that it was the least salty salt water I ever tasted!

Back on the boat, we freshened up in time for dinner and were seated with two gals from Australia. It was really fun to chat and swap travel stories of our times in New Zealand and the food the crew prepared was amazing!

After dinner, Matt and I settled into our cabin and read our books before passing out…but before long we were woken up by howling winds! Peering outside, the wind was gusting like crazy! We were so happy to be safely within a steel boat and not a tent like last time! But even crazier was the thunder and lightning. I guess our bus driver, Ryan, was right about the weather report. I briefly worried about him after remembering he told us he was going to be sleeping in a tent that night- I hoped he at least took refuge in the bus before picking us up the next day.

With the storm going crazy outside, I wondered if maybe I had overdone it asking the universe for rain. I switched tactics and sent out some prayers for sun tomorrow, asking whoever may be listening.

The rocking of the boat made me regret not buying any Dramamine and also made me regret that last glass of wine. With some luck, I was able to fall back asleep.

It was an early call for breakfast the next day, and our ship left the harbor to take a full cruise of the sound and even venture into the Tasman Sea. The rain had pretty much stopped by 7am when we were eating breakfast, and I hoped that the sun would show.

After breakfast, we took to the outside decks with our cameras and I looked up to see the clouds parting above me- like two walls opening up with pure blue behind them. The sun started to shine through more cracks in the clouds and it looked so ethereal it brought tears to my eyes.

We cruised to where the Milford Sound met the Tasman Sea, and turned around. Right then, a pod of Bottlenose dolphins decided to come check us out. There was even a little calf within the pod- it was so cute!

From there, we began heading towards the harbor where we would eventually disembark. The sun continued to shine brighter and burn off the residual of the storm clouds. The waterfalls sputtered out so fast! Without rain, they dissipate within 1-2 hours, the crew explained. Absolutely wild how quickly the landscape changes!

Some of the larger waterfalls were still powerfully expelling the water as it cascaded down the various cliffs. There were so many moments where I wasn’t sure if I was living in a dream because it was so beautiful I was having a hard time comprehending it.

We docked in the harbor, disembarked, and found our bus driver, Ryan. Thankful he also survived the storm, our bus group quickly got situated and we began the drive back to Te Anau.

Along the way, I marveled at how different the landscape looked! Fog, low clouds and rain that had blanketed the mountain peaks the day prior were replaced with nothing but sunshine and blue sky. And more waterfalls, of course!

We stopped off the side of the road as our driver had spotted a Kea. Curious and cheeky little alpine parrots, this one was interested in a camper that had parked. Once the camper began to drive away, the Kea hopped off the roof and landed on the roof of our bus. We all watched in amusement and amazement as the bird explored our rig and eventually just casually walked along the side of the cliff. I stayed still and crouched, taking photos and videos and was lucky enough to get some close shots!

Back on the bus, we continued along and I, again appreciated the choice of music for the ride. The vibes were good.

We both still could not get over how incredibly lucky we were to have experienced both extremes of Milford Sound that enabled us to get the best of both worlds- endless waterfalls in the rain and epic sun-drenched mountain peaks.

Back in Te Anau, Matt and I grabbed a bite and then relaxed at our Airbnb until our much anticipated dinner reservation at the Redcliff!

We ordered the wild venison and the wild hare to split (it was both our first times trying hare) and they were so incredibly delicious! Wow, what a meal. It definitely landed in the top 3 best meals of the trip, hands down.

After dinner we went back to the Airbnb to relax and sleeeeep! It felt so good to catch up on sleep after getting less than optimal sleep on the boat due to the crazy storm.

This was one of the coolest experiences during our time in New Zealand and I am so glad we took the plunge on it! Our trip is almost over and I am starting to realize that real life is coming at me fast. Time to soak it all up for these last few days.